Málaga, the city of the Costa del Sol that captivates everyone who visits, has become a sought-after destination for remote workers, particularly those in the tech industry. In recent years, major companies like Google and Amazon have set up hubs in the city, drawn by its ideal climate and high quality of life. In 2023, Málaga was recognized as the second best city in the world for nomadic executives, just behind Dubai.
With its sun-drenched beaches, vibrant nightlife, and undeniable Andalusian charm, this city truly has it all. But beyond its stunning scenery, there’s a culinary treasure you might not have discovered yet: espetos.
What Are Espetos?
An espeto consists of skewering fish, typically sardines, on long, thin canes that are then placed next to a wood fire on the beach.
The gentle heat from the embers slowly cooks the sardines until their skin becomes crispy and their flesh, juicy.
But what truly sets espetos apart is the context: they’re prepared on boats anchored in the sand, with the aroma of sea salt and wood filling the air. Eating an espeto means savoring a piece of Málaga’s culture.
A Journey Through History
Although today espetos are an iconic symbol of Málaga, their origins date back to the 19th century. Legend has it that in 1882, a fisherman named Miguel Martínez Soler had a brilliant idea: to skewer sardines on canes and roast them on the beach. He did this in the neighborhood of El Palo, which at that time was a small fishing village.
This simple invention quickly became a local phenomenon, and the espeto became part of the daily life of the humble folks in the area. What started as a quick and inexpensive meal is now a delicacy loved by both locals and tourists visiting the Costa del Sol.
This tradition has taken such root that a statue was erected in honor of espeteros along the Paseo Marítimo de Antonio Machado, next to Playa de la Misericordia. Yes, the craft of roasting fish on canes has become so revered that it even has its own monument.
How Espetos Are Made
At first glance, grilling sardines may seem straightforward, but espeteros master a technique that transforms this process into something much more refined. First, they select fresh sardines, carefully skewering them through their backs on long canes. The secret lies in how the sardines are positioned: they must be perfectly aligned so the heat from the embers cooks them evenly.
The embers are key. Traditionally, olive wood is used, which not only generates the necessary heat but also adds a subtle smoky flavor to the fish. The canes are placed at an angle to allow the espeto to cook with the wind at their back, preventing the fish from becoming overly smoky.
The result is spectacular: sardines with a crispy skin that melts in your mouth and juicy flesh bursting with ocean flavor. All this takes about ten minutes.
What Makes the Espeto Special?
While you might think that espetos are just “grilled sardines,” the reality is that this method of roasting has a unique charm. Compared to traditional barbecues known in the United States, the espeto offers a much more rustic and direct experience. There are no complicated sauces or dressings—just the fish, the fire, and a sprinkle of salt.
Plus, sardines are incredibly healthy. Packed with omega-3 fatty acids, protein, and vitamins, espetos are not only delicious but also a nutritious choice for your heart.
The Ritual of Eating Espetos
Eating espetos is an informal and relaxed experience, much like the lifestyle on the Costa del Sol. Tradition dictates that you eat them by hand. You grab the sardine by the head or tail and pull the flesh away from the bones with your teeth, leaving the bones intact. A squeeze of lemon on top, and you’ve got the perfect dish.
And of course, the ideal drink to accompany your espetos is something cold: a chilled beer, a glass of white wine, or a tinto de verano are perfect pairings for this delicacy. If you add a fresh salad of tomato, lettuce, and onion, you’ll be in paradise.
Where to Try the Best Espetos
The best places to try espetos are the chiringuitos lining the beaches, where they are cooked on boats right in front of you.
Recommended Chiringuitos:
- El Tintero in El Palo: Famous for its lively atmosphere and fresh espetos.
- Chiringuito La Moraga in Pedregalejo: A local favorite with a stunning beachfront view.
- Chiringuito La Playa near Playa de la Misericordia: Known for its excellent service and authentic flavors.
Additionally, while sardines are the traditional fish, you’ll also find espetos made with other varieties like doradas, lubinas, or even calamari.
A Treasure Waiting to Be Recognized
Despite their long history and popularity among locals and tourists, espetos have yet to receive the global recognition they deserve. For several years, efforts have been underway to have UNESCO declare them an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. It’s not just about taste, but also about technique, tradition, and culture. However, the process is still ongoing, so in the meantime, you have the chance to enjoy this culinary treasure before it becomes a worldwide phenomenon.
More Than Just a Dish, It’s an Experience
The espeto is much more than a way to cook fish. It’s an experience that captures the laid-back and authentic lifestyle of Málaga. By trying it, you’re not just savoring a delicious meal; you’re participating in a centuries-old tradition that’s part of the cultural identity of southern Spain.